India
Trip 11 April to 15 May 2010
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Gothenburg,
Sweden Saturday, April 10
The
real vacation started today, a sunny day and the final
preparations for the trip to India. The
last of obligations concerning work completed. Taken leave
of friends I am sitting by the window and looking out over the
harbor in Gothenburg. The
water is deep blue, light blue skies, deep shadows that only the
chilly early spring morning can create. Life
springs everywhere, and now is wonderful time. Something
is keeping me back home to explore the landscape of spring, something
pulls me far away to forget all the confrontations and conflicts,
consuming and burdensome tasks. Itīs no
escape, only a quiet place to be, to see the day.
The
ferry
to Denmark differs from the quay over there, seeking out the
mainstream of the river to the sea. Someone who leans against
the railing of the upper deck is aware of that departure, the
present tension, the constant feeling, to weigh anchor and drift, a relief but also uncertainty.
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Helsinki
Sunday, April 11
Finland
still looks a bit out of the wintry from the airplane window.
The airport has a considerable amount of Japanese people who change planes. You start to believe Tokyo - Helsinki - Paris is
on the same great circle, shortest route to Europe.
My
flight is in about 5 hours. In this amazing transit lobby I
kill time by surfing on the airport's free wireless internet,
while watching people "live" from all corners of the
world. The commercial tax-free zones, all rigid bars and
restaurants, all lined up seats, signs that crystal clear
showing exactly where you are and where the toilet is. Actually,
airports purely social stone dead places. The question is
whether one could create a cozy, friendly airport terminal. I
think most people wish to go around, undisturbed in their
thoughts, find their way to the next gate and check-in. Itīs comforting to hear the announcer inform in Japanese about flight
delays and boarding times.
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Delhi,
Monday, April 12
Just
outside the entrance to the Indira Gandhi International Airport
begins the India I remember. The heat that strikes the face,
dust and mess in general. From the airports well lit halls to the
inscrutable crowd squeezed together. Everywhere there
is people who engage themselves in all sorts of things. The
construction of a five times larger airport facility,
cutting-edge, next door. I promise that within a few years, the
situation is the same, it is there, the inside and out phenomena.
All India travelers recognize it. You do not pay for a place in
the sun but for a place behind the glass doors. As this one next
to a seemingly chaotic Pahar
Ganj
I'm at a bit expensive place eating and surfing free
with my own computer on the local Wifi. Outside the glass door (and the glass
wall), is beggars, vendors and sacred cows. The houses collapses
here,
you have to repair before the Commonwealth Games in early
October. Here is messier than usual. At the station they try to
hide the rake behind cheerfully painted facades glued on to the
old. The incredibly neglected and run down Connaught
Place
is finally being renovated. Something that should been
undertaken for many, many years ago, at least for architecture's
sake. Itīs giant colonial design that perfectly suits the climate
with its cool amazing arcade where all the upscale shops and
eateries are well guarded behind glass doors. Within a few years
the street vendors are there again, beggars, mangy dogs and men
with confidence tricks. (See renovation pictures here)
Pahar
Ganj retains its wonderful shops and cheap hotels. It is the
Westerners favorite spot but also a popular base for the lower
middle class. Right now you may watch out for falling bricks and
concrete blocks in the renovation frenzy going on till late at
night where you can see lightning from welders trying to put together
the skeleton iron facade.
I
would prefer continuous improvement and change in attitude of
people in common. This feels really imposed from above, creating
jobs which is good, but what happens then?
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Pahar
Ganj

Connaught
Place, photo from http://iguide.travel/Delhi/Activities
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View
from Devdas Woods Guesthouse

Mussorie
at dusk
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Mussoorie
April 13 to 14
There
are number of reasons at any time to go to India. The heat, the
smells, food, architecture and so Himalayas. The last is my
refuge and where I get to spend the holidays this time.
Nostalgia for me is to embark the night train to Dehradun and
early morning ride up to Mussoorie, where I spent most of my
childhood. Now the train was full of pilgrims to the
Kumbha Mela
in Haridwar. It was almost completely empty on the train when we
crossed Haridwar and I could sit at the window and see the
mountains fade into the haze. It is dry season and visibility is
not the best. Fires are common in May and June before the rainy
season. At the railway station in Dehra Doon the traditional breakfast of toast, fried eggs and tea
was to be abandoned, the restaurang was unfortunately closed. I then shared a taxi
with an Indian couple and we started to Mussoorie on a winding
road up to 2000 m altitude. Eventually I ended up in Landour on
Devdas Woods Guest House, a base station for almost 11 days.
Spring is lovely and somehow itīs here I have come to ground.
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Rishikesh
April 15 to 16
I
had the opportunity traveling light to Rishikesh in order to study public life there in the
backwaters of Kumbha Mela in
Haridwar. The trip there went well with switches between taxi,
rickshaw and bus. Well there half the city was closed to
vehicles and I had to like all other pilgrims walk up the river
Ganges to the holy sites. There was a steady stream of people
who would cross the Ganges on a pontoon bridge and two narrow
suspension bridges. The sacred temples were on both sides so
there was this stream of pilgrims who never ended like the
Ganges itself. Old and young, small children, more wealthy and
extremely poor who had saved long for this yatra,
usually carrying on there head a woolen bag containing all
necessities. We saw them in crowds under the big dense
crowns of the trees cooling themselves in its shade. Tightly
packed in accommodations, large Dharamsalas, a kind of shelters for pilgrims.
Patient, meek, waiting for their turn to the temple priest,
constantly praying to various gods of the roadside, one four armed horse god,
a blue god perched in a tree, a fearsome god with flaming eyes
and red stretched tongue mounted on a grinning tiger.
At
least one million pilgrims here, there were over 15 million in
Haridwar.
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Mussoorie
April 17
What
is sweeter than the sight of deep red Rhododendrons in the blue
mountains? It is a short time when they adorn the slopes. The
red petals already cover the soil under the trees.
Slopes
are covered in daisies, there are millions of them! See a set of
more flowers
here.
Can you name them so please get in touch to info@davey.se
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Mussoorie
April 18
The
monkeys rooming around in flocks. The red-brown
"Bandar" is replaced by the gray 'Langurs ".
Their newborn babies clutching at chest and stomach of the
female. With great elegance and agility they move between the houses, trees and rock walls. They
walk effortless on
tight ropes. They turn the garbage cans upside down on in search
for food. Maybe they have flourished so incredible here because
of this food supply, or has it become too warm in the valleys
and plains. They migrate down to lower altitudes in winter. At the
temples they are fed by the visitors who see them as descendants of
the monkey god Hanuma. The red "Bandar" is specialized in stealing
fruit from people, first try to frighten by angry outburst and then grabbing the fruit
parcel from the perplexed victim.
Some
birds and butterflies
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Mussoorie
April 19 to 24
The
tourist season is underway. It's hot in the plains and tourists
come in a constant stream. It is the Indian middle-class
favorite place, and it is especially popular to celebrate honeymoon
here. Here is everything for everybody on a wide price range. Antique shops
with very much colonial goods. Fabric shops dominates, everything
from luxury boutiques to market stalls. Souvenir boutiques are
second in number and it is an incredible mix of tinkers. Along
the way are stalls selling popcorn, cotton candy and grilled corncobs. Then you
might eat in restaurants of all classes. There are plenty of activities
, the cable car ride, dress up in colorful countryside
clothes and be photographed, ride horses, ride
carousel, roller skating rink with disco, playing countless data games. There are excursions to the waterfall
Kempty Falls, Sir
George Everest house, Nag Tibba, a sacred mountain peak devoted
to the holy snake, or a trip to Dhanoulti
a scenic mountain town.
The municipality has "embellished" The Mall, the
main thoroughfare in the city, with sculptures of animals, relief
of giant lions and wild horses. Some local politicians have
taken the opportunity to put his photograph in front of the "animal farms". However, there is a real aquarium with
a variety of beautiful fishes. Tourist track is from Kulri,
through the Mall to Gandhi Chowk. Here its completely
unbearable when the tourist season is at its peak according to
those who have survived it.
Click
on any image.
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Mussoorie
April 19 to 24
The
most interesting about a city like Mussorie on a ridge
2000-2500 m up is the settlements and how it evolved through the
ages, changed, rebuilt and destroyed. Most of it is being built
on concrete foundations atop of high concrete columns. You do not
have to excavate and remove large pieces of rock and easily
connect business and residentials directly to the main street.
British officers built their settlements in the mined-out
mountain plateaus reinforced with stone walls. The houses were
mostly a copy of the bungalow from the plains but in stone and
wood with corrugated tin roofs. Slate roofs are the traditional
way in the mountains. Slate roofs in Kulu valley and Chamba valley
can be incredibly beautiful. Now here concrete and metal are the
only means.
I
have 45 years' perspective on Mussoorie and the wealth have
increased markedly. There are currently no beggars, all children
attend school and the majority look well fed. The
settlements in Landour were regarded as pure slum at one
time but is now fairly well organized, relatively speaking.
However,
as in all Indian cities, a growing mountains of rubbish. Sewers,
water supply and electricity distribution needs to be improved.
Mobile phone network is incredibly extensive and every man and
woman with any income carries a cell phone.
Drawings
in pencil, 15 x 21 cm
An
unlikely abode
(I've drawn as truthfully as possible.)
Thas
was
all from Mussorie. Traveling April 25 to Delhi and then
to Darjeeling.
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Settlements
in Landour Basses

Settlements
beyond the Gandhi Chowk
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Train
ready for departure at Darjeeling station. It was a turning
plate for the engine but it was not used.

Steam
locomotive model in its entirety. Behind the chimney is water.
Above the driver is the carbon stock.

Pistons
and connecting rods. The water tank on top

Pressure
gauges, valves, controls and levers. Door to fire chamber hem.

On
the way, one can say. The track takes a turn at the asphalt
road.
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Darjeeling
Express
April
26 to 27
From
New Delhi the Rajdhani Express train continue far into
Assam after passing Siliguri which is the place you switch for Darjeeling. The
remaining stretch you travel by a Lilliputian train that questionable can be
called express when it takes nine hours to cover the 90 km long
route to Darjeeling, high up in the mountains. There is a narrow
corridor between Bangladesh, Bhutan, China and Nepal that India
has with the tiny state of Sikkim in the north. To the east
widens the fertile Assam with the great river Brahmaputra in the
center surrounded by the states of Arunachal, Nagaland, Manipur,
Tripura and Meghalaya Mizoram. Large areas of concern for India
with rebellion, strife between different population groups in
ethnic, religious and economic conflicts. China has claims to Arunachal. The frontier of Burma is very hilly
jungle. Nagaland was known for its headhunters adorned in
colorful feathers, but they are rare now. The region is undergoing
rapid development and tourism is steadily increasing.
There is said to be very beautiful.
Rajdhani
Express is one of these fantastic intercity trains with full
catering on board just like on an airplane, at least if you have
purchased a 2nd class sleeper ticket with AC. Costs 35 US$ for 24 hours
journey (1800 Km) The whole car is like a coupe, so there is not
much privacy. First, it is delivered mineral water. Lunch
starts with a good soup, crackers and butter. Then veg or
nonveg Indian meal with rice, dal, vegetable curry (or chicken curry), fresh vegetables, pickles (strong) and two bread (chapati). Lunch ends with a
curd and finally an ice cream as dessert. Very good considering
the distasteful airlines
are performing. The curd comes in a small clay pot the size of a
coffee cup well cooled. At 5 o'clock, it is tea with snacks.
With warm water in a small thermos you mix your tea
according to taste. The supper is a repeat of lunch with
some variations. Breakfast consists of tea, omelets, toast,
butter and marmalade. Dishes are removed carefully and the
cart is vigorously cleaned on a regular basis. Sheets, pillows and blankets
are provided and you are quite satisfied and pleased when you go
to bed. Then you have to get used to all cackle from passengers, screaming and wild discussions. The use of
headphones when listening to music is not Indian way of life. It
can be a pure cacophony of sounds through the compartment where
all plays music in their mobiles. Forward at late hours itīs quiet,
lights are shut of and
you are lulled to sleep by the
train rushing through the endless flat Ganges plain.
Something
like Darjeeling Express in the movie with the same name this is not. I
feel that the film mixes styles from current and former colonial
carriages. But the adventure was able to develop itself as
in the movie. The train went constantly in one direction when
falling asleep, but had reversed direction in the morning. Thats
the feeling you get when the landscape is rushing in the opposite
direction. Somewhere on a station in Bengal the train stops
because of a
railroad strike that lasted nine hours. Many became impatient
and jumped off the train to continue with shared taxi or bus to
Nepal. The trolley was at times almost devoid of people who have
to inquire, look at the strike or visit the village. Once we
started again train was slow and I reached Siliguri 10 hours behind
schedule.
The
next morning after night hotel in Siliguri, I was full of
hope to have a ride with the Lilliputian train, or "Toy
Train" as they call it, to Darjeeling at 2134 meters
altitude. It was unfortunately canceled due to a landslide in the
mountains so I had to take a shared taxi up instead. However, I
was a bit disappointed that the narrow-gauge track mostly ran
along the road, inside or outside. It was poorly maintained and
ran straight through the center of village roads where it was
insanely tight for the cars . We were standing still for long periods of pure traffic jams because of roadwork's. How
the train basted through all of this is a mystery. I thought
the train puffed in solitary majesty, winding among the green hills
and tea plantations with the blue mountains in the background
for occasionally stops at small stations made of stones decorated with
flower pots. There is a little sightseeing tours out from Darjeeling
by train which is perhaps more rewarding. It was fun to study
the steam engines at the railway station in Darjeeling. There is
also pinned to the wall the plaque declaring the railroad as a world culture
heritage. I hope they use the money to fix up the tracks and
locomotives.
Work
on the railway started in 1879, came into use in 1881 and was
completed in 1920 when the last "descent" to
Darjeeling was built. The railroad passing thus its highest
point before Darjeeling. No tunnels were made because they
wanted the view over the beautiful landscape not to be obscured.
(Prior to 1881 a voyage from Calcutta to Darjeeling, a
distance of 670 Km, took six days by train, ferry, ox-carts,
horses and porters.) Track width is approximately 60 cm and the steam
engine brand is a Garret from 1909 with a mass of 28 tons. This
thing with Lilliputian is relative.
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Darjeeling,
April 29
Tibetan:
"Dorji" = thunder, "Ling" = place
Here
is a beautiful panorama, when you look north and to the valley below
with all the tea plantations Himalayan range would be seen beyond
the blue mountains but it was foggy and cloudy today. Central city has a labyrinth of winding
streets, stairways and passageways. The
original colonial character soon was lost in all new
construction. Everywhere shops are selling
"Pure Darjeeling Tea" and its no doubts so.
Darjeeling is surrounded by tea plantations. But there is also a
zoo, a botanical garden, a military school, police, schools,
boarding schools, Tibetan Center and Tenzings house and
mountain climbing school. Sherpa Tenzing Norkey was the first
man on the top of Everest 1953.
Darjeeling
is said to have the world's finest teas. The city's name is
synonymous with tea. To make a good tea is an art and I am speaking
not only about brewing. British smuggled a Chinese tea which
thrived very well in the mountains and the climate was perfect
with a high humidity and heavy rain. It takes 8-10 years for the
bush to be ripe for harvest. Picked by hand the fresh
leaves have 70-80% humidity. They are lightly dried so humidity is
reduced to approximately 40%. Then special rolling of the
leaves is undertaken so that they release their life giving
juices and flavors.
Step three is something called fermentation. The leaves are on beds a few cm high in
high humidity. Here all aromatic
substances develops and the process must be stopped at any given time
before the final drying process, so that humidity reaches
about 2% .
This is the old traditional method and the rolling, fermentation
and sorting is required fingertip sensitivity and nose.
Fermentation can not be stopped too early or too late. The
sorting takes place in different degrees. Whole leaf prices high
and broken leafs are cheaper. Tea dust are cheapest and come in our
tea bags. The upper fresh leaf is used to make the most
expensive tea. It should then be something like "Super Fine
Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe. Fine tea is Golden Flowery
Orange Pekoe or GFOP and then the leaves are whole. Then comes the
broken tea leafs of various sorts. Golden Broken Orange Pekoe
GBOP etc.

Happy
Valley tea plantation and factory from 1857. Machinery has about
the same age but very well kept and well maintained.
Tomorrow
it's off to Sikkim and some mountain hiking. Maybe I have time
with a first impression once there, since I'm in the wilderness thereafter
for 8 days .
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North.
Kangchenjunga, the world third highest peak behind the clouds

East parts of the city of Darjeeling

Down
to a tea plantation
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Sikkim
Pelling
April 2 to 4
Well,
this
is Sikkim in a nutshell. Kangchenjunga rising to 8585 m
altitude, the world third highest peak, it is the pointed tip
on the right side of the picture. Old Buddhist monastery of
Bhutanese ancestry. Here one of the oldest, Pemayangste whose
name means' Perfect Sublime Lotus ". The walls inside are
covered with paintings, both delightful depictions of nature,
animals and plants but also terrifying bloodthirsty gods and
goddesses with many arms and heads. At the front of the aisle
one sculpture of Buddha seated in meditation. There are
ritual drums, seats for the monks and the library upstairs with
all the holy scriptures. At the top of the third floor is the
whole world
mountain sculpted with just about everything that the paintings
depict, hermit in the caves, thunderbolts, from nature down there to
the gods at the top in countless formations. The
entrance to the temple area has a small temple with a giant prayer wheel
in brass. It went around by himself with an electric motor and
sent the prayers to higher spheres like the prayer flags
everywhere who flutters in the wind. The prayers that are
written on them are brought away over the mountains. All around the
monastery are "Chortens", grave monuments of important
Buddhists.
The
image of Sikkim can be supplemented by the desolate expanses of cold valleys in the north. Rhododendrons in 36 different
species, orchids in and at least 450 and at last, the lovely red
panda, the symbol of Sikkim.
Chorten
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Image
albums and Links
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Sikkim
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Fangorn
Forest between Tzoka and Dzongri
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Red
Panda
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Drawings
from India
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Slideshow
Darjeeling & Sikkim

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